Sunday 9th may 2010
day 1:
the first day of surfing we went down to south berry bay. this was the first time i had ever been surfing and i was not feeling quite up to it but i gave it a go. the instructors were Sheryl who works at the school, orey who was the lead instructor and Shane. we had to squeeze into extremely tight wet suits which felt rather odd on our bodies. the wet suits felt really weird on my body with all of my hair. we were toldfirst off how to lie on the board and then stand up on it. finally it was time to get into the water and was feeling the adrenaline pumping through me. i loved the splashing of the cool, silky and salty sea crashing up against me. the hard, cold breeze smacking me in the face was refreshing and cool. i caught i few waves and glided across the water like freezing ice cream and hot day on a slant. although i caught a few waves i could not stay on the board while trying to get up. it was tough for me but the experience of crashing waves and the adrenaline pumping through me was enough.
after a lunch of salami sandwiches it was time to go back in this time we were all tired and weakened by the surfing before. to me the waves were stronger, the wind more powerful on my face and the sand was thicker and harder to move through. because of this i was pulled under by the waves numerous times and had to get out of the ocean and change back into our clothing to go on the bus. today was good for me because i tried something new and i was proud of myself for going there and facing the waves.
monday 10th may 2010
day 2:
on the second day we went to the same beach named south berry bay but this time the weather was different. with stronger winds and rougher seas it was going to be tough. the activity we were doing was that there were groups of two who both had to share a board. when the first partner had caught a wave we had to swap. this didn't work out for most of the groups who ended up bobbing in the water and body surfing who were just having fun. we ended up building sand castles and digging holes. the teachers cut the lesson short for some apparent reason but i enjoyed today but i still got thrown underwater and started throwing p but it was fine. i enjoyed the surfing and the view of the sea from the hill and I'm looking forward to next in about a week.
Monday 17th may 2010
day 3:
we went surfing a berrybay north. another day of surfing had just begun but i wasn't exited about it due to being quite tired and sick. we did a few fitness exercises just to get us feeling loose and more flexible. when we got into the water it was quite fun. splashing and jumping over waves while trying to catch the biggest or msot powerful wave. the waves were powerful and mennacing. i got dunken under plenty of times and felt a bit faint and dizzy. many times i had to stop and have a rest but i went back in. i can catch a wave but i cannot stand up on the board yet which has become very annoyng. after a lunch of beef sandwiches there was a brisk walk along the beach to some large rocks which were drowned in the great waves which crashed upon the rocks. when coming the instructors decided to show us what to do when in a rip. i wasn't feeling too good about going into a rip because ive never been in one before, but what scared me more was a family of dolphins swimming and jumping in the waves. what scared me more was that the group that was out there were swimming right over them and they were about an inch away from the surfers. this caused me to be freaked out and i refused to go into the water. i was not keen on going in again or even tomorrow.
tuesday 18th may 2010
day 4:
twas the final day of surfing and this time we were at berrybay south. iwasn't confident because of seeing the dolphins the day before but luckly there wern't any. thank god. i went in feeling a bit more enthusiastic. i nearly stood up on the board a few times but i kept on making one mistake and falling. the waves were not as strong as the ones at berrybay north but they still packed a punch but luckly i wasn't pulled underwater forcing me to get to the beach. unfortunatley, i fell into a bit of trouble. while catching a wave, a hooligan from my class sped right over my back and the fin smacked me in the foot. luckly it didn't pierce the skin but it did cause agonising pain. i had to stay on the beach to replenish and recooperate. after lunch i only went into the sea for only a little bit but i couldn't maintain it and i had to stop. i am relieved that the sufing is over.
Friday, April 30, 2010
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Dear Michael,
ReplyDeleteIt's been nice reading about your surfing experience. Look forward to reading more.
Love,
Mum
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